This adorable 10" plate goes together in minutes and is sure to be a treasured gift or part of your holiday decorations.
Materials all 96 COE:
Top: 10x10" (I flipped it over for a more subtle color) OGT 317.02
Base: 10x10" White SP SF200
2 10x1" strips & 2 8x1" strips 355.1 for the border OGT 355.1
Penguin Cluster 96PENGUINXL
Dichroic Strips or other elements of your choice
Procedure:
Make sure that all of your components are squeaky clean. Stack as shown. I did glue this one up with gel glue because of the weight and I didn't want my feet to move.
Firing schedule for MY kiln:
Ramp up 250 per hour to 950
hold at 950 for 20min
1150 for 30
1250 for 30
1400 hold for 15
afap (9999 or as fast as possible) to 950 hold 120 minutes
200 to 800 hold 10
ramp down 300 per hour
Slump into your favorite plate form if desired
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In the kiln today:
Slab Puddle Project (Click for the project guide)
On Deck:
Glue Up (for tomorrow) Monochrome mini puddles (Click for the tutorial)
I'm already starting to see some of the supplies that I bought on day one get here. The table hasn't arrived, but the ring display, table cover and burlap table scarf have.
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This project utilizes the Borrby lantern (black or white) in either small or large. These currently sell on Ikea for $7.99 and $14.99.
1. Gently manipulate the tabs to remove the plain glass insert(s) you'd like to replace with fused glass.
2. Using the piece of glass as a pattern, cut a base for your project.
3. Decorate your base as you'd like, making sure to leave 1/2" on each side so your piece will fit the frame when you assemble your lantern.
4. Tack fuse.
5. Assemble your lantern using your new inserts.
Tip from the trenches: To save time, I fused the fox and the duck at the same time. The fox was much closer to the elements (I stacked these) and got more of a fuse than I wanted. The cord texture totally fused out.
For this example I made three small lantern inserts.
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To assemble:
Clean all of your pieces
Glue the clear strips to the edges of your base to create a dam
Arrange glass blobs as desired
Fill with frit, using a brush to sweep frit into every nook and cranny. Because my blobs were taller than the edges, I didn't mound the frit. If you use smaller blobs, mound the frit slightly as it will settle when it melts.
Want bubbles? Use coarse frit and a regular fuse schedule.
Use a bubble squeeze program to fuse your plate blank.
Slump into the plate form of your choice.
I slumped mine upside down because I wanted the bumpy texture on the top.
It's easy!
Take a base color (I used 200 white) 6x6"
Choose a second layer center color (I used clear for depth) 5x5"
Cut 2 border strips 1/2" by 5"
Cut 2 border strips 1/2" by 6"
Cut your square focal 3x3"
Assemble
Fuse One: I did a tack fuse for the original fuse because I wanted the edges to stay sharp.
Fuse Two: Slump into a plate mold (I used Creative Paradise GM14)
This is a quick plate but one that people always seem to be drawn to. To create this plate, select a sheet of glass that has gentle movement. This plate can be made with or without the embellishments. Without embellishments, cutting needs to be much more accurate.
Take a base measuring 6x6" square.
Cut six one inch by six inch strips of glass from a swirled or wispy piece (I used sour apple)
Add embellishments if you want. I used 1/4" squares and small Colorado River Rock in white. I used noodle in white and amazon.
Place your base down first. Add the strips, one at a time, alternating the direction of the "flow" of the swirls. Place your embellishments. For best results, place noodles on solid glass, not on the cracks between the strips. Otherwise, they tend to sink and wobble.
Variation: Place your design elements on the kiln shelf first and cap with a piece of clear for a deeper look.
Full fuse using a bubble squeeze program.
Slump into a six inch plate form or drop out mold. I used GM14.
Choose a texture, either smooth or contoured
Smooth: Assemble and do a bubble squeeze
Contoured: Fuse and do a contour fuse
Slump into a plate form. I used the Bullseye 8996 form
This six by six inch plate using the following pieces
6x6" base (icicle)
4x4" center (ruby)
4 1x1" Square of four colors
4 1/2 by 1" pieces for the corners
8 1/2" by 1/2" squares (four of each color)
Assemble & run through a bubble squeeze program.
Slump into your favorite drop out or plate mold. I used GM14.
1 six by six inch base (I used icicle clear)
1 five by five inch sheet for the center top of the plate (I used Sour Apple)
2 strips 1/2 by five inches for borders (I used Amazon Green)
2 strips 1/2 by six inches for borders (I used Amazon Green)
4 pieces of medium Colorado River Rock (I used White Opal)
Black opal for the body
Red opal for the wings
Black stringer for the antennae
Small black Colorado River Rock for the spots and antennae tips
Instructions: Build your plate using the base, border pieces, and center sheet. I don't use adhesive, but you can.
To Build Your Bug: Select artwork from the internet, book, or draw your own.
Make your pattern pieces using oil board or draw directly onto your glass. I actually draw onto paper and then run it through my copy machine using oil board as paper. Then I cut them out. It's pretty slick.
Using a candle or gas stove top, heat your stringer until it glows and then bend to the curved shape.
Add your black dots.
Full fuse on a bubble squeeze program. Slump into a square plate form. I used Creative Paradise GM14 (found in my store.)
Millefiori is Italian for a thousand flowers.
Click and go to millefiori at Rocky Mountain Glass Crafts
Millefiori has many uses in the fuser's workshop.
These crosses go together in seconds. Choose your mille slices and arrange on your kiln shelf with the edges touching. Fuse to desired effect. Some of these are tack fused, some are full fused.
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1. Cut a 6x6" sheet of glass into 1/2" strips.
2. Cut a 6x6" base in your choice of color.
3. Place six half inch strips going one way. (I glue this layer because otherwise it's like playing "Jenga" when you place the top layer.) Hint: Use a strip to measure the space between stripes.
4. Place the other six half inch strips going the other way.
5. Full fuse (I did between a tack and full fuse on this one and got a little more of a spreading than I wanted.)
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2. Cut two 6x6" sheets of compatible glass. Clean them well. (Adjust the glass size as desired. You can use up to an 8" sheet (square or round) on the smaller mold. You can use a larger sheet if you want the tops to "puddle".
3. Put a sheet of ThinFire Paper on your kiln shelf. Place the glass on the kiln shelf. Measure the tips to make sure your glass is centered.
4. Use a bubble squeeze program to bring these two pieces to a full fuse.
5. Clean and dry your slab.
6. Place another sheet of Thinfire on your kiln shelf (just in case). Center the slab on the prepared mold. I place the slab on a table, put the mold on it, measure to make sure that it's centered and then flip it over.
7. Contour fuse to desired drape. (I did a 20 minute soak on this one.)
8. Clean your piece
9. Place a waxed wick on a wick tab in the center of your vase. Fill it with about one inch of olive oil (or candle wax). Light and enjoy with due caution.
]]>Hint: Heavy pieces do better with glass etching cream. The rest I do with a sanding block.
]]>Aventuine Green 3mm Sheet glass (Or the color of your choosing)
Dichroic Noodle (cut in 6" lengths) 3 pieces
Assemble the layers (I glue the dichroic strips because it's hard to assemble if you don't) and do a full bubble squeeze fusing schedule.
Cut into 3/4" pieces (or as desired).
Fuse to desired shape.
]]>6x8" almond
6x8" clear
Design elements: I used various sizes of Colorado River Rock and squares that I cut into 1/4" pieces. The lines were 1/4" by 3". See the cutting example below.
Assemble:
Fuse to desired effect. I did a little beyond a tack fuse on these.
]]>1. Source some one of a kind beads with a hole that's approximately 2mm. I found great color-themed beads at Hobby Lobby. I used one "WOW" bead surrounded by two coordinating beads for each holder.
2. Arrange the beads on the mandrel. You can use silicone to keep the beads in place, but it's not necessary.
3. Enjoy!
Variations: weave lace or ribbon between the beads. Do seasonal or theme displays with lampworked animal beads, holiday beads or beads that represent a particular season.
]]>1 4x4" sheet Black glass (I used 2mm)
1 4x4" sheet Gray glass (3mm)
1 4x4" sheet White glass (2mm)
1 4x4" sheet of Clear glass (3mm)
Cut each sheet into 1/2" by 1" rectangles. You'll have a bunch of them.
Stack the rectangles with a drop of glue between each piece.
Place on end (as shown) on your kiln shelf covered with thinfire.
Fuse using a bubble squeeze schedule (full fuse, slow ramp).
VARIATIONS: Use your imagination. Easter colors, Valentine's colors, Christmas colors, earth tones. Half and half (two layers each of single colors). They're all easy and fun. Add some silver foil. Add some mica. Sprinkle frit flakes on the top.
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Ingredients:
Clear glass for caps
Large scraps of patterned dichroic on black or clear thin substrate. I try to find patterns with a predictable repeat, but sometimes the more "organic" ones (where I don't do that and cut at random) are actually really cool!
Procedure:
For pendants:
Cut dichroic rectangles 1/2" by 1" (or to your desired size)
Cut an equal number of clear caps 1/2" by 1" (or to your desired size)
For earrings:
Cut dichroic squares 1/2" (or to your desired size)
Cut an equal number of clear caps 1/2" (or to your desired size)
Place on the kiln shelf which has been covered with Thin Fire:
Place the dichroic pieces on your papered kiln shelf about 1/2" apart.
Cap each dichroic piece with a clear piece of glass. These are tricky. Make sure that the cap and the dichroic are properly aligned. Some people cut their caps a hair larger than the dichro. I do not glue up this type of project because I do not want carbon staining.
Set your kiln to the desired fuse. I want the earring starts to be round and the cabs to be oval.
Keep notes! These were done in my table top kiln where I could keep a good eye on them.
Variations: Place clear patterned dichro over a solid or multi colored glass.
Bonus Project Single Layer Working Glass Jewelry Starts:
Cut patterned dichroic into desired shapes
Fuse just to soften the edges. I do these in my smaller kiln on medium high, just until they start to form rounded squares. If you let them go too long, the patterns distort.
Left: In the kiln
Right: Finished. These will be pendant and earring sets.
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Ingredients:
Fusing glass cut into a six by six inch square (or scrap if you'd prefer)
Directions:
Score your glass into even squares. Here is a picture of my set up. I use a Morton Portable Glass Shop to which I've added rulers from an office supply store.
Place your squares on a kiln shelf that's been fitted with Papyros or Thinfire shelf paper (The strange shapes are puddles. I fill up every inch of space every day!)
Pro tips: Once you have scored your glass sheets, you'll want to have squares that break off nice and evenly.
Firing instructions: In my big kiln. I do AFAP to 1480; hold 5 minutes (for 1/4 squares, longer for larger squares up to 20 minutes); afap to 600; hold 5 minutes; afap to 200; shut off. I used to just turn it crash cooling your kiln can be hard on the elements.
In my little kiln (manual control) high 38 minutes or until it reaches 1490. Turn it down to maintain 1490 and run another 7 minutes. Then I just turn it off.
Items used in the demo (Just click to go):
Choice Running Pliers
Ingredients: five coordinating colors of compatible sheet glass. (I did 6x6")
Stringers if you want them.
Persimmon, Ivory, Chocolate, Sunflower, Peacock
Make sure your glass is squeaky clean and stack it on your kiln shelf fitted with ThinFire. This is going to spread a lot. Five six inch sheets spread to almost 10".
I added stringers going one direction under the yellow the other direction over the yellow. They acted like ball-bearings and were a pain. I thought they might give me dots which would look fun. They're just another layer to the design interest.
Carefully close the kiln lid (this will want to slide) and run through a full fuse (bubble squeeze) program.
You'll get a slab. A big slab. I could probably make 100 pendants maybe more from this one slab.
Now you've got to break up this slab. On the bumpy side (yes, the side that was on the paper in the kiln), make a deep score to split the slab in half. I break these on the edge of my work bench because it just will not break with running pliers.
The first cut is the most difficult. Continue until you've got pieces the size and shape you want. You can score crazy shapes, turn it over and hit it with a hammer if you want a more organic look. I like the clean edges myself.
Place your pieces edge side up on your kiln shelf leaving plenty of space for them to spread when they puddle.
Run another bubble squeeze schedule.
Enjoy!
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Now cut those squares in half diagonally to make triangles.
Starting with the largest triangle, cut the tips off. The tip of the largest triangle is used for the top of the tree and measures about 3/4" tall.
Run a line of glue along the top edge. I don't normally glue up projects like these, but they'll want to slide.
Place the next largest on top of the base piece and continue until you'll assembled your tree. Add a small scrap of brown for the trunk.
I let these set up for about an hour and then fused as follows.
Suggested uses: These make great plate focals. Add a bail for an easy ornament or window hanging.
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6x6" Base (I used icicle clear)
3 1x6" strips (color one)
3 1x6" strips (color two)
3 6" noodles
Colorado River Rock Small (I used four colors)
Cut and clean all of your components. Place your strips on top of your base. Add your embellishments. Hint: I placed my noodle on top of the white instead of straddling the seam so it wouldn't "sink" during firing.
Run though a full fuse. I always use a bubble squeeze. www.spectrumglass.com has a fusing schedule for 96 COE glass. www.bullseyeglass.com has a fusing schedule for 90 COE glass.
Slump into a square 6" drop out mold. I used Creative Paradise Glass Mold 14. ( Search DROP OUT in my store).
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2 square feet of compatible glass (I used 96 Icicle because I like the icy look)
1/8" Fiber Paper
Cookie Cutters & an ink pad (optional)
Instructions:
Cut glass into 4x4" squares. You'll need two for each coaster.
Dip the cookie cutter into the ink pad and stamp onto your 1/8" fiber paper, or just make your own designs.
Hint: You'll want to make each design take up about the same amount of space so that the coasters will retain about the same size once fused. I just eye-ball these. It doesn't have to be too scientific.
Place a sheet of 1/8" fiber paper on your kiln shelf. Assemble the coasters by placing the design elements (cut outs) bumpy side up on the fiber paper. Stack the glass sheets over the cut outs.
Run through a full fuse.
A little bit of cold-working will take off any sharp edges.
ENJOY!
]]>2 10" black System 96 Precut Rounds (or cut your own)
1 package each three colors of Spectrum Chips (or make your own) 1/2"
1 package Colorado River Rock Medium (or make your own) 1/2"
Thinfire fusing paper
A slumping mold. We used Patty Gray's bowl mold.
The purpose of this fun tutorial is to learn about basic glass control. Most fused glass projects are one-sided or have a pattern that goes all the way through the piece. With this technique, you can decorate both sides of your bowl or platter while keeping a nice round shape.
1. Start by tracing the round onto your fusing paper. A blue highlighter will not transfer to your glass. I also draw guidelines so I can place my edge pieces more accurately.
2. Arrange your border pieces on the lines. You'll need to make some adjustments once you place your black rounds. It's impossible not to move a piece or two. When you've placed the border pieces, add two layers of black round glass and then add your top decorations. You'll want to have equal distribution of the embellishments to keep your perfectly round shape.
Hint: You can use 1" squares around the edge for a slightly scalloped border.
3. Run this round through a full bubble squeeze program for a perfectly round finished (fused) piece or a full fuse if you'd like some texture on the edges and slightly raised bumps. I didn't use any adhesive on this project.
4. Slump your finished project!
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ZYP glass release spray
Pendant Casting Mold (I used the offset squares mold by Color De Verre)
Medium Frit 96 COE
Colorado River Rock Small & Medium 96 COE
Spray your pendant mold with ZYP. Line each compartment in the mold with a sprinkling of the frit color of your choice. On top of the frit, arrange the first layer of River Rock. Top with a small amount of frit and then repeat with another layer of River Rock.
Hint: If the River Rocks are touching, they'll "blob" for you into larger blobs. If they're apart, they'll reshape less. I like to combine the two ideas for a lava lamp look.
Full fuse and enjoy!
I like to spray my molds on a dark background so that I can see that the spray is even.
For best results, sprinkle the molds with frit and then add your first layer of Colorado River Rock.
Ready to go! It's like the night before Christmas.
Finished pieces. Enjoy!
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